21.12.24

The History of Chocolate: 4000 Years of Delight

Chocolate. Pixabay Image, Public Domain.


Cacao And Cocoa

Long before a chocolate bar became the go-to snack or indulgence the bitter beans of the cacao trees found in South and Central America offered ancient cultures a treasured and God-given beverage.

For the origin of chocolate, we need to step back in history about 4000 years to the Southern Mexican (Mesoamerican) Olmec people. Cacao beans offered them a ceremonial drink and they believed that it had magical properties.

Each cacao pod carried around forty beans and these were dried, roasted and then possibly ground into a pulp or left whole. Sadly but understandably, there are no surviving records or recipes for their version of hot chocolate.

The earliest proof of cacao consumption by the Olmecs dates back to approximately 1500 B.C. Pots discovered by archaeologists revealed the presence of theobromine, a chemical present in cacao and chocolate.

To clarify, "cacao" is the name given to the cacao bean prior to processing, and "cocoa" is used when it is in a powdered or processed form.


Mayan Chocolhaa & the Aztecs Xocolatl

The chocoholic Olmecs introduced their drink to the Mayans and they loved it so much that they used it for ceremonies and whenever a business deal was sealed. They named it chocolhaa meaning bitter water (https://www.iaf.gov/).

Very quickly, at all levels of Mayan society every meal was accompanied by the drink and the people experimented with the flavour by adding sweet and spicy ingredients to their chocolhaa.

The Aztecs made the Olmecs and the Mayans look tardy in their enthusiasm.

They believed that cacao was a gift from their gods and they named it xocolatl. Ruler Montezuma II (1466-1520) believed that xocolatl was an aphrodisiac and that it gave him an energy boost. Chocolate contains a small amount of caffeine. It was reserved for the great and powerful and he issued xocolatl to his soldiers so that they would perform better in battle.

The wider Aztec population enjoyed it as a special occasion-only drink.


Fun Facts

7.5 million tons of chocolate was consumed around the world in 2022 (damecacao.com).

In 2021 the Swiss ate the most chocolate followed by the Americans and Germans (beantobar.com).



Chocolate Arrives In Europe


The details are sketchy but chocolhaa/xocolatl was introduced to the Europeans during the 16th century. There are three dominant theories:

  1. It was given to King Philip II of Spain by monks who had visited the Mayans.
  2. The explorer Christopher Columbus brought it back from the Americas after meeting the Aztecs.
  3. The Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes acquired some xocolatl from the Aztecs and he travelled home with it.

Once European high society learned of the existence of the bitter beverage its popularity never waned. Chocolate houses appeared in Europe's cities and plantations were established in Central and South America to meet demand. Spain started to import the commodity in 1585.

The chocolate house owners experimented with flavours because the European taste buds preferred a sweeter option. Soon a concoction more similar to today's hot chocolate was created.

The Dutchman Van Houten created powdered chocolate, known as "Dutch cocoa"—note the change of spelling—and this made it more accessible to the less wealthy. It was easier to mix it with water.


Joseph Fry, Henri Nestle and Roldophe Lindt

The American colonies first saw liquid chocolate in 1641 when it arrived on a ship from Europe. The result: More chocolate lovers. By the following century, chocolate formed part of the U.S. Army rations. This was sometimes in lieu of monetary payment.

During the early 19th century chocolate remained a drink but the use of milk became more widespread. The English Quaker Joseph Fry invented the first chocolate bar in 1847. Familiar names like Lindt, Cadburys, Mars and Nestle emerged with a solid product that contained milk in varying quantities.

In the 1870s German-born Henri Nestle was the first to mass produce milk chocolate from his premises in Switzerland.

Chocolate bars were not yet the refined product we enjoy today; chocolate was hard to chew until Swiss chocolatier Rodolphe Lindt pioneered a process that aerated and smoothed out the mixture. He also invented conching, the process of evenly spreading cocoa butter in the chocolate mixture. Modern chocolate was born in 1879. Thank you Herr Lindt.


Milk Chocolate and White Chocolate

Pennsylvanian-born Milton S. Hershey founded his company in 1894 and the U.S. consumer has enjoyed his products since. Today, the U.S. chocolate market is worth $4 billion.

White chocolate was created and produced in large volumes by Henri Nestle during the 1930s. Closer to the original Olmec product, dark chocolate contains antioxidants so that almost makes it a healthy option, but not quite.

Did you know that one chocolate bar contains on average 250kcals so it takes a walk of between 45-55 minutes to burn those calories (based on a 50-year-old).

That said, 21st-century xocolatl is so tempting.


Sources:

The Tolpuddle Martyrs: A Fight For Fair Treatment

Plaque dedicated to the Tolpuddle Martyrs. Credit Adam Bishop/Wikipedia CC4.0
Plaque dedicated to the Tolpuddle Martyrs. Image Credit: Adam Bishop/Wikipedia CC4.0.

 

The Tolpuddle Martyrs Were Ordinary Men 

The Tolpuddle Martyrs were six farm workers from Tolpuddle in Dorset, England that challenged the landowner Squire James Frampton and his managers about their poor working conditions and low wages.

The Tolpuddle Martyrs:

  • George Loveless.
  • James Loveless, brother of George Loveless.
  • John Standfield.
  • Thomas Standfield, father of John. Thomas was married Dinniah, nee Loveless, George and James' sister. The Standfield's and Lovelesses worked on the same farm.
  • James Brine. (He married Thomas Standfield's daughter Elizabeth).
  • James Hammett.

Barely able to cope on a wage of 9 shillings per week in 1830, the amount steadily decreased until in 1833 it was just 7 shillings per week with a 1 shilling reduction rumoured. That ensured starvation unless all the family (if there was one) were put to work. A tiny amount of flour, a peck, cost three shillings. (The Observer, 29th November 1830).

The martyrs story inspired the establishment of the earliest British trade unions tasked with protecting employees rights. Almost two hundred years later the men are still celebrated as ordinary people that changed lives forever, but at a devastating cost.


Fears Of An English Revolution

Agricultural labourers in other regions of England had already achieved a wage increase or a wage freeze by protesting, most notably in the 1830 Swing Riots.

In 1832 the six Tolpuddle men, none of them radicals or idealists, formed the Friendly Society of Agricultural Labourers, a small trade union funded by subscription fees. An oath of loyalty and secrecy was sworn as the inductee looked at an image of a skeleton, the symbol of mortality. They met in each others homes and under the village sycamore tree, later known as the Martyrs Tree.

The society members wanted wages of 10 shillings a week, still a meagre amount compared to the squire's wealth.

Frampton, in common with many establishment figures, was petrified of an English Revolution similar to the French one and so the existence of friendly societies (unions) was perceived as a threat and this motivated him to contact the Home Secretary William Lamb, Lord Melbourne (the future Prime Minister) to warn him about the dangers in his area.


The Tolpuddle Martyrs Trial

Melbourne was unswervingly against these societies and unions and he had a vested interest in Dorset because his brother-in-law William Ponsonby was the county's Member of Parliament.

He urged Frampton to employ spies and to enforce the 1797 Unlawful Oaths Act, the law that post French Revolution made the swearing of secret oaths illegal. The act was established to halt naval mutinies.

Frampton's spy and society member Edward Legg confirmed that a secret oath was sworn and the squire seized his opportunity to do his "duty". The six Tolpuddle society founders were arrested on the morning of 24th February 1834.

The following month they were tried at the Old Town Court in Dorchester. People realised that it was a grossly unfair trial. William Ponsonby M.P. was the head juror and the jury featured Squire Frampton, his son, his step-brother and several of the men who had signed the arrest warrants. Judge Williams was equally prejudiced against the defendants.


A Public Outcry

Judge Williams declared that the men were guilty; he claimed that "the safety of the country was at stake." He handed down the harshest sentence available to him: Transportation to Australia where each man would spend seven years in a penal colony. After their term was served, they faced the possibility of being sold into slavery because they wouldn't be able to afford their fare to travel home.

The press men in the court gallery ensured that news about the severity of the sentences spread quickly (by Georgian standards). There was outrage.

Other friendly societies rallied; they saw that they were just as vulnerable to unfair judgements. In the name of justice, unrest spread across the country and marches were organised. Petitions were signed by thousands.

The government and the landowners were stunned by the outcry but Lord Melbourne elected to do nothing to lessen or quash the Tolpuddle Martyrs convictions. Judge Williams was awarded a knighthood in April 1834.


A Pardon From King William IV

Five of the Tolpuddle Martyrs arrived in Sydney on 17th August 1834 and George Loveless reached Australia on 4th September 1834.

Their wives and families appealed for parish poor relief, money to help them to survive. Squire Frampton refused to assist them. The campaigners for justice for the Tolpuddle Martyrs came to their rescue.

By 1836 there had been a change in government and the sustained public outrage influenced the Home Secretary Lord John Russell, the future Prime Minister, to persuade King William IV to issue full pardons. The martyrs were finally free men, able to return to England but the news took months to reach Australia so their torment continued.

George Loveless was the first to arrive in England on 13th June 1837, a week before King William IV's death. Crowds of people were at the dock to see his homecoming. He hadn't seen his wife and children since the 24th February 1834.

The Standfields', Brine and James Loveless docked at Plymouth on 17th March 1838. They were gifted new suits and were taken to London for a celebratory dinner attended by 2,000 guests. James Hammett returned home on 25th August 1839.

George Loveless wrote about his experiences in "The Victims of Wiggery." Each copy cost 4 pence and the money went to the six men and their families. After their attempts to settle into new lives in Essex, England failed, five of the men and their families emigrated to Ontario, Canada to start afresh as farmers.

James Hammett stayed in Tolpuddle. He became a builder's labourer in Dorset and he was honoured by union leaders in 1875. He died in a workhouse in 1891; he didn't want to be a burden to his family, He was buried in Tolpuddle.

The annual Tolpuddle Martyrs Festival and Rally, organised by the Trades Union Congress celebrates their story. There are six memorial cottages, built in 1934, and a museum with a gift shop in the village.

The Tolpuddle Martyrs contribution to improving workers rights won't be forgotten.


Sources:

20.12.24

The Grand Tour: A Rite of Passage for 18th Century Male Aristocrats

 

Grand Tourist Francis Basset by Batoni-Public Domain Image.

The European Grand Tour

When the sons of the great British aristocratic households approached 21 years old, their "coming of age", they were dispatched to the European mainland for their classical education. The term "Grand Tour" was coined by the writer and clergyman Richard Lessels in 1670.

The men were encouraged to admire the art, architecture, fashion and music of Europe's cultural centres. Lengthy stays in Paris and Rome were almost always included on the tour and there wasn't a set itinerary or duration. Some tours lasted for months, others for several years.

Before the men embarked on their trips they would have already studied Latin and the classic works of literature.


"According to the law of custom, and perhaps of reason, foreign travel completes the education of an English gentleman, "

— Historian Edward Gibbon (1737-1794).


The Grand Tour Cicerone

The daughters of the great houses were not always so fortunate; their destiny was to marry and produce children so educational expeditions were not regarded as a priority. By the close of the 18th century, female grand tourists were increasing in number.

Throughout the tour, a knowledgeable guide, normally a clergyman, tutor or a scholar, travelled with the men. These guides were called cicerones, or "bear-leaders". The cicerone was a French speaker, the diplomatic language of Europe.

18th century travel was expensive and arduous. The tourists were rich but the roads were poor. Multiple coaches and horses were required and progress was slow. The only alternative was sea travel.


Which Cities Did The Grand Tour Visit?

A common experience was to cross from England to France for an extended stay in Paris. There, the young men frequently studied dancing, social skills and fencing before they travelled south to Lyon and Marseilles.

After an uncomfortable land journey across the Alps or a more convivial boat ride to Italy's coast, classical tourists enjoyed Genoa, Florence, Venice and Rome. After the excavations of Pompeii began in the 1730s, the archaeological digs were also visited.

The return journey frequently passed through Switzerland, Germany, the Netherlands and then it was back to a French port to cross the English Channel to get home to the ancestral pile.

Each hub of European culture enjoyed economic prosperity during the Grand Tour's heyday. Young men from Britain, mainland Europe and later the U.S.A. spent lavishly, but not always on educational pursuits.

To the horror of cicerones, many of the young men discovered women of easy virtue, gambled and attended raucous parties. Inhibitions were lessened by the distance from home so the sowing of wild oats was inevitable.


..."fallen in love with a very pretty Venetian of two and twenty — with great black eyes — we have found & sworn an eternal attachment ...and I verily believe we are one of the happiest unlawful couples on this side of the Alps."

— Lord George Byron, an unrelenting hedonist.


The End Of The Grand Tour's Golden Era

The men returned home inspired to build or landscape in the classical style and their tour purchases of artwork and furnishings can still be seen in Britain's stately mansions. The mementos illustrated the tourist's wealth and command of style and fashion. A lot of travellers chose to write about their tours, presumably editing out any misadventures.

Writing memoirs, guidebooks and essays offered an opportunity to reminisce, to inform the less fortunate about Europe's treasures and sometimes to boast that they were rich enough to have been on a grand tour.

The French Revolution and Napoleon Bonaparte's march across Europe affected the nobility's ability to travel. After "Boney's" defeat there was a resurgence in the tour's popularity but the advent of the railways spelled the end of the prestigious era of grand tours.

Affordable and comfortable rail travel became a possibility for more people. Within decades holiday firms like Thomas Cook & Sons flourished.


Sources: